A History of Mountaineering
Our Legacy
The Whittaker name is woven into the fabric of American mountaineering. From Jim Whittaker’s historic Everest summit in 1963 to Lou Whittaker’s founding of RMI Expeditions at the base of Mount Rainier, our legacy has always been about pushing boundaries and sharing the mountain experience. Over the decades, RMI guides have led climbers to the top of Rainier more than 100,000 times, pioneered first ascents on the world’s highest peaks, and set standards for safety, training, and professionalism across the industry. Today, that same spirit lives on in every climb we guide and every piece of gear we recommend. Our history is more than milestones — it’s the story of a community built on adventure, trust, and the pursuit of summits.
The "First Family" of Mountaineering
In 1948, the Whittaker twins, Jim and Lou, began mountain rescue work in the Cascades of Washington state. By 1950 they were guides on Mt. Rainier. Two years later, they became instructors for the army’s renowned 10th Mountain Division, which produced many of America’s greatest climbers.
Even in those early days, the Whittaker family was deeply involved in outdoor retail. In 1954, both twins worked in ski and sporting goods stores. A year later Jim, along with Lloyd Anderson, opened Recreational Equipment Cooperative, now known as REI, which Jim gradually built into America's largest outdoor specialty retailer. Along the way, he also became the first American to summit Mt. Everest (1963) and an advisor and spokesperson for Vibram Rubber Company, whose lug soles continue to revolutionize climbing footwear. In 1990, Jim led the successful Mt. Everest International Peace Climb, comprised of mountaineers from China, Russia and the U.S.
The Next Generation
Lou's son Peter continues this formidable legacy, first summiting Rainier at age 16. Peter began Whittaker Mountaineering, and now serves at the helm of RMI, having climbed Rainier over 200 times. As a young man, he spent 10 years as a heli-ski guide in the powder mecca of Snowbird. In 1984, at the age of 24, he was instrumental in carrying loads to high camp on the North Face of Everest. Peter has completed the Seven Summits, having stood on top of the highest point on each continent, designed cutting-edge products for Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, JanSport and First Ascent and now Bight Gear.
RMI Expedition's Legacy
Meanwhile, Lou concentrated his efforts on Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI), which has evolved into the most long-lived, wide-ranging mountain guide service in North America, serving clients on Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Everest, Kilimanjaro and beyond, along with thousands who come to climb Rainier every year (more than 100,000 since 1968). Between his duties as head guide and owner of RMI, Lou led the first ascent of the North Face of Everest in 1984 and the first American ascent of Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest peak, in 1989. He has served as a product designer and consultant for JanSport, New Balance and K2.
Outfitting Simplified
Whittaker Mountaineering was born out of the need for RMI to make sure their clients had the appropriate gear to get to the top of Mt. Rainier safely. After decades of trying, reviewing, arguing-over, and recommending gear, we can’t help but know what we’re doing by this point. We know what works, we know what doesn’t, and we use that expertise to stock our store.
Eventually, we formalized these recommendations into an annual survey of RMI guides. In it, we ask them to list their top gear picks by category for everything from socks to ice axes. The items with the most votes are designated as GUIDE PICK™. Read more about GUIDE PICK™ here.
The "First Family" of Mountaineering
In 1948, the Whittaker twins, Jim and Lou, began mountain rescue work in the Cascades of Washington state. By 1950 they were guides on Mt. Rainier. Two years later, they became instructors for the army’s renowned 10th Mountain Division, which produced many of America’s greatest climbers.
Even in those early days, the Whittaker family was deeply involved in outdoor retail. In 1954, both twins worked in ski and sporting goods stores. A year later Jim, along with Lloyd Anderson, opened Recreational Equipment Cooperative, now known as REI, which Jim gradually built into America's largest outdoor specialty retailer. Along the way, he also became the first American to summit Mt. Everest (1963) and an advisor and spokesperson for Vibram Rubber Company, whose lug soles continue to revolutionize climbing footwear. In 1990, Jim led the successful Mt. Everest International Peace Climb, comprised of mountaineers from China, Russia and the U.S.
The Next Generation
Lou's son Peter continues this formidable legacy, first summiting Rainier at age 16. Peter began Whittaker Mountaineering, and now serves at the helm of RMI, having climbed Rainier over 200 times. As a young man, he spent 10 years as a heli-ski guide in the powder mecca of Snowbird. In 1984, at the age of 24, he was instrumental in carrying loads to high camp on the North Face of Everest. Peter has completed the Seven Summits, having stood on top of the highest point on each continent, designed cutting-edge products for Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, JanSport and First Ascent and now Bight Gear.
RMI Expedition's Legacy
Meanwhile, Lou concentrated his efforts on Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI), which has evolved into the most long-lived, wide-ranging mountain guide service in North America, serving clients on Denali, Aconcagua, Vinson, Everest, Kilimanjaro and beyond, along with thousands who come to climb Rainier every year (more than 100,000 since 1968). Between his duties as head guide and owner of RMI, Lou led the first ascent of the North Face of Everest in 1984 and the first American ascent of Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest peak, in 1989. He has served as a product designer and consultant for JanSport, New Balance and K2.
Outfitting Simplified
Whittaker Mountaineering was born out of the need for RMI to make sure their clients had the appropriate gear to get to the top of Mt. Rainier safely. After decades of trying, reviewing, arguing-over, and recommending gear, we can’t help but know what we’re doing by this point. We know what works, we know what doesn’t, and we use that expertise to stock our store.
Eventually, we formalized these recommendations into an annual survey of RMI guides. In it, we ask them to list their top gear picks by category for everything from socks to ice axes. The items with the most votes are designated as GUIDE PICK™. Read more about GUIDE PICK™ here.
Jim Whittaker
First American Summit of Everest
In 1963, Jim Whittaker made history on May 1 as the first American to summit Mount Everest, ascending via the South Col route alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu. Braving howling winds and near-zero temperatures—and even continuing on depleted oxygen—they spent only 20 minutes at the summit before beginning their descent. His successful climb captivated the nation, earning him a parade in Seattle, the prestigious Hubbard Medal presented by President Kennedy, and inspiring a surge in American mountaineering.
Lou Whittaker
Lou Whittaker Founds RMI Expeditions
In 1969, Lou Whittaker partnered with Jerry Lynch to establish Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. (RMI), creating North America’s most respected professional guide service based at the base of Mount Rainier. Lou’s vision was clear from the start: to offer guided climbs rooted in safety, expertise, and the kind of alpine know-how that only comes from living and working in the mountains. Since then, RMI has led expeditions across the globe—from mountaineering classic Denali to the highest peaks on every continent—shaping decades of guiding standards under the stewardship of Lou’s son, Peter.
Jim Whittaker
Jim Leads First American Summit of K2
In 1978, Jim Whittaker led the first successful American ascent of K2, one of the world’s most demanding peaks and long seen as the ultimate mountaineering challenge. The team pioneered a complex route via the Northeast Ridge, traversing the East Face and joining the Abruzzi Spur to reach the summit. Four climbers—Louis Reichardt, Jim Wickwire, John Roskelley, and Rick Ridgeway—stood atop K2 in what many consider the greatest accomplishment in American mountaineering history
Larry Nielson
RMI Guide Larry Nielson Becomes First American to Summit Everest without Supplemental O2
This achievement marked a turning point in American mountaineering, proving Everest could be climbed by U.S. climbers without supplemental oxygen. It highlighted the endurance and skill of RMI guides on the world’s highest stage.
Lou Whittaker
Lou Leads First American Ascent of Kanchenjugna
This historic climb put American alpinists on the world’s third-highest peak for the first time. Lou’s leadership on Kanchenjunga reinforced RMI’s reputation for tackling the most challenging objectives on Earth.
Ed Viesturs
RMI Guide Ed Viesturs Becomes First American to Summit all 14,800M Peaks Without Supplemental O2
A landmark in American climbing, Ed completed all fourteen of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen. His accomplishment showcased unmatched persistence and placed RMI at the center of one of mountaineering’s greatest achievements.
Melissa Arnot
RMI Guide Melissa Arnot Becomes First Woman to Summit Everest without Supplemental O2
Melissa’s groundbreaking climb made her the first woman to reach Everest’s summit without supplemental oxygen. The achievement was a powerful testament to strength, perseverance, and RMI’s tradition of guiding excellence.
