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Ed Viesturs

Ed Viesturs

Age: 51
Hometown: Bainbridge Island, WA
Climbing Interests: Himalayan expeditions, high altitude mountaineering

In 2005, Ed Viesturs stepped firmly into the slot as one of the world's leading high altitude mountaineers when he completed an 18-year goal by climbing all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter-high peaks. At the time he was one of only five mountaineers to accomplish the feat without bottled oxygen. He remains one of only 21 climbers to ascend all the 8,000-ers, and one of only 10 to do so without supplemental gas. When combined with seven repeats of Everest, Ed has summited 8,000-meter peaks a total of 21 times, all without frostbite or assisted descents - a further testament to his mountaineering abilities.

A Midwest refugee by background, Ed learned mountaineering in Washington's Cascades, and on Mt. Rainier in particular. His first attempt of the peak, as a poor and naïve young college student, was made in high winds with a plastic bicycle poncho flapping in his face. To date Viesturs has climbed Rainier 208 times, usually as an RMI guide. He still leads parties up Rainier several times each summer. "It's where I learned, where I met the right people" he explains. "I had great mentors. I learned about safety. I think the guide training I got on Rainier has kept me alive on a lot of really big dangerous mountains."

In addition to his climbing exploits, Viesturs is now a busy public speaker, corporate spokesperson and parent. He is married to wife Paula, and has four children. He has co-authored two popular books with writer David Roberts: No Shortcuts to the Top and K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain. Less known about Viesturs is that he has received the American Alpine Club's David A. Sowles Award for his part in two separate 1992 rescues high on K2. "I've always felt that if someone asks for help, you give it," he says. "But yeah during one of those rescues, it was a bad day, with snow and avalanche conditions. It was a day we normally wouldn't have been out climbing. Scott (Fisher) and I nearly died. That's as close as I've ever gotten in the mountains."

Throughout his career, Viesturs has been an extremely dedicated trainer. "For me, fitness and training hard are just part of your job description as a climber," he explains. "I want to make sure I've done my homework. When I go on the mountain, that's where I take the test." Focus and dedication have always been hallmarks of Viesturs' climbing style. "If you can find something you want to do, do it well," he says. "At the end of the day you're a pretty happy person if you seek goals that fulfill you."

Ed also appreciates simplicity. "There's a benefit to having less," he says. "Because it's lighter, more efficient, and less distracting to use. Less is actually better." That's right in line with Whittaker Mountaineering's philosophy and, combined with Ed's formidable mountaineering expertise, just one more reason we're proud to have him on the team.

In addition to his climbing exploits, Viesturs is now a busy corporate speaker, design consultant, and spokesperson for Rolex, Eddie Bauer/First Ascent, Immuno Viva, Source-44, Grando Gloves and SOLE. He is married to wife Paula, has four children and lives on Bainbridge Island, Washington.

For more information about Ed, go to www.edviesturs.com.

K2: LIFE AND DEATH ON THE WORLD'S MOST DANGEROUS MOUNTAIN

 K2: Life and Death on the World

Ed Viesturs' K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain

Autographed Copy. The deadly history of the world's most-dangerous mountain illuminates the many lessons both climbers and non-climbers alike can glean from K2, aptly named Savage Mountain.

CLIMBING RESUME HIGHLIGHTS

  • 200+ Ascents of Mount Rainier, Washington (14,411')
  • 11 Expeditions to Everest (29,029') - 7 successful
  • 14 successful ascents of all 8000 meter peaks without supplemental oxygen
  • 2 Ascents of the Ecuador Volcanoes: Chimborazo (20,703') and Cotopoxi (19,348')
  • 5 Ascents of the Mexican Volcanoes: Pico de Orizaba (18,701'), Popocatepetl (18,701')
  • 2 Expeditions to Antarctica, Mt. Vinson (16,067')
  • 2 ascents of Peak Lenin, Russian Pamirs (23,406')
  • 2 Ascents of Aconcagua, Argentina (22,841')
  • 3 Ascents of Mount McKinley, Alaska (20,320')
  • 1 Ascent of Russia's Mt. Elbrus (18,481')
  • 1 ascent of Mt Cook, New Zealand (12,316')
  • Numerous ascents of major Pacific Northwest Peaks

FEATURED VIDEO

ED'S INTERVIEW ON SPORTS RADIO 950 KJR

ED VIESTURS ON AM 950 KJR

Listen to the Interview

Mike Gastineau, aka the Gas Man, talks to Ed about climbing 8,000m peaks and respecting Mt. Rainier. Link provided courtesy of KJR-AM - Clear Channel Radio.

Q & A WITH ED

What was your hardest hurdle in climbing all 14 8,000-meter peaks?
"Believe it or not, finding the money, the funding to do it."

What's the most dangerous climb you've ever been on, a particularly sketchy trip?
"...Annapurna was certainly the most dangerous. Especially in 2000 when we went to the North Face"... READ MORE

ED'S TOP GEAR PICKS

First Ascent Men's Ultra Merino 1/4 Zip Top
There is no substitute for the inherent qualities and feel of Merino wool next to your skin. The ultimate odor and moisture manager, wool will keep you warm when it's cold out, and cool when it's hot. Worn as a base layer, you'll feel comfortable through a multi-day expedition.

First Ascent Men's Rainier Storm Shell Jacket
This is my shelter from the storm when I am climbing providing protection from wind, snow and rain. A truly multifunctional piece that provides tons of protection and security for only a few ounces of weight.

First Ascent Men's Mountain Guide Jacket
Wear this as a breathable outer layer in windy and dry snow conditions. Doubles as a windproof midlayer to allow transition through changing temperature and weather.

Outdoor Research Expedition Crocodile Gaiters
These gaiters are able to endure harsh temperatures, rough terrain and can be used with crampons or skis. Extra circumference around the entire leg allows for the thick layers of clothing worn in extreme conditions. A Velcro Cinch-Strap provides a low-bulk, easy to use top closure. A spare set of field replaceable instep straps is included with each pair. They also have greater circumference to fit over plastic boots and cold weather clothing.

Sole Custom Footbeds
These custom footbeds mold to your feet perfectly. Two minutes in the oven, then into your boots, and you have a perfect fit. Very comfortable.