-
Pack and Bag
-
Duffel Bag A 100+ liter bag made of tough material with rugged zippers. This duffel will be used on the mountain to transport gear in your sled.
-
Backpack A 90+ liter pack is the recommended size for this climb. It is imperative that your backpack is large enough and tough enough to handle the load. A separate summit pack is not needed.
-
Sleeping Bag A bag rated to -20° to -30° F. Either goose down or synthetic, with ample room for movement. Most guides prefer down, because it is lightweight and compactable. A waterproof bag is preferred, but not mandatory.
The temperature rating system for sleeping bags is arbitrary and is not a guarantee of warmth. Base your selection on how well you do in the cold. If you tend to sleep on the cold side, choose a bag rated on the lower end of the temperature range. Using two sleeping bags together is not recommended.
-
Compression Stuff Sack for Sleeping Bag
-
Sleeping Pad - Inflatable A full-length inflatable pad.
-
Sleeping Pad - Closed Foam A full-length or 3/4 length closed cell foam pad.
-
Technical Gear
-
Ice Axe The length of your axe depends on your height. Use the following general mountaineering formula: up to 5'8", use a 65 cm. axe; 5'8" to 6'2", use a 70 cm. axe; and taller, use a 75 cm. axe. If you hold the axe so that it hangs comfortably at your side, the spike of the axe should still be a few inches above the ground.
-
Climbing Harness A comfortable, adjustable climbing harness.
-
(5) Non-Locking Carabiners
-
(2) Locking Carabiners
-
Helmet A lightweight climbing helmet.
-
Crampons The 12-point adjustable crampons designed for general mountaineering are ideal. Carry any repair kit/replacement parts and adjusting tools which are specific to your crampons.
-
Avalanche Transceiver A digital transceiver is preferred; analog will work as well.
-
Trekking Poles Lightweight and collapsible.
-
Mechanical Ascender For traveling on fixed ropes.
-
Runners Two 60 cm 'Single-Length' pre-sewn slings. Need one for use with mechanical ascender, plus a second for security on the fixed lines. Dyneema or Dynex slings are preferable to nylon because they are thinner, stronger and easier to handle.
A 120 cm 'Double-Length' pre-sewn sling, for an ice axe 'Alaska' leash.
-
Accessory Cord 25' of 6mm perlon cord for sled tether, sled prussik and backpack 'ditch loop'.
20' of 3mm perlon cord for miscellaneous lashing.
-
Snowshoes Select a short to medium length model of snowshoe. The 22" model and the optional heel lift work well for most climbers. Team members are more often 'drafting' as opposed to actually breaking trail, so it is not necessary to have a longer pair. The 'shoes should have an attached claw or crampon for better purchase. Miles of roped glacier travel will be logged wearing snowshoes. It is recommended to spend some time walking in them prior to the trip.
-
Head
-
Warm Hat Wool or synthetic. It should be warm and thin enough to fit underneath a climbing helmet.
-
Neck Gaiter / Balaclava
-
Buff or Bandana A buff or bandana provides good protection from the sun and dust as well as insulation from the cold, dry air.
-
Ball Cap or Sun Hat A lightweight ball cap or sun hat.
-
Glacier Glasses A pair of dark-lensed sunglasses with side shields or full wrap-type sunglasses. Two pairs are recommended.
-
Goggles Amber or rose-tinted goggles for adverse weather. Additionally, contact lens wearers may find a clear-lensed goggle very useful on windy nights.
-
Hands
-
Light Weight Glove One pair of fleece gloves.
-
Medium Weight Glove Wind/water resistant insulated mountain gloves.
-
Heavy Weight Insulated Glove or Mitten Wind/water resistant, insulated gloves or mittens for protection against wind, snow and cold. These also serve as emergency back-ups if you drop or lose a glove.
-
Upper Body
-
(2) Light to Medium Weight Base Layer Long-sleeve wool or synthetic top will be used as your base layer. Zip-neck styles will allow for better temperature regulation.
-
Light Insulating Layer A fleece or other insulation layer.
-
Soft Shell Layer A windproof, water-resistant and highly breathable layer.
-
Rain Shell Jacket A jacket made of rain/wind-proof material with an attached hood.
-
Down or Synthetic Insulated Jacket A hooded down or synthetic jacket.
-
Insulated Parka with Hood This item becomes of highest importance when we are faced with poor weather. This should be an expedition-style parka. The parka is worn primarily in camp, at rest breaks, and on summit day (when it is of crucial importance). When sizing a parka, allow for several layers to be worn underneath; buy it large. The parka must have an insulated hood.
-
Lower Body
-
(1-3) Pairs of Underwear Non-cotton boxers of briefs
-
Light to Medium Weight Base Layer Light to medium weight wool or synthetic bottoms.
-
Climbing Pant Synthetic climbing pants offer a wide range of versatility. You can wear them alone on hot days, or in combination with the base layer on cold days. The thickness (insulation quality) should be based on how well you do in the cold.
-
Rain Shell Pant A pant made of breathable rain and wind-proof material will be needed. Full-length side zippers are required for facilitating quick clothing adjustments over boots and crampons in cold, inclement weather.
-
Down or Synthetic Insulated Pant A synthetic primaloft pant.
-
Feet
-
Mountaineerineering Boots Expedition-style quality double boot, with high altitude expedition-style inner boot is mandatory. Though expensive, the function of footwear is of crucial importance. The boot needs to be roomy enough to allow for good circulation. Wear the boots as often as possible before the climb, to determine proper fit, comfort and performance.
-
Overboots Expedition overboots add significant warmth, especially at high altitude. All-in-one mountaineering boots do not need the added insulation of overboots.
-
Booties Goose down or synthetic fill. Booties can be worn inside of the overboots while walking around camp, which allows an opportunity to dry out inner boots.
-
Gaiters A knee-length pair of gaiters, large enough to fit over your mountaineering boots. This will protect you from catching your crampons on loose clothing.
-
(4+) Socks Either wool or synthetic. Some people find liner socks useful for reducing friction.
-
Miscellaneous Items
-
Lipscreen
-
Sunscreen
-
(2) Water Bottles One-quart water bottles are required. Wide mouth bottles are ideal since their opening is less likely to freeze.
-
Insulated Water Bottle Covers These help prevent liquids from freezing. It should completely cover the bottle.
-
Ear Plugs
-
Toothpaste
-
Baby Wipes
-
Hand Sanitizer
-
Toilet Paper
-
Bowl
-
Insulated Mug
-
Spoon or Spork
-
Pocket Knife
-
Items Needed for Independent Climbs
-
Tent
-
Stove
-
Rope
-
Snow Safety
-
Protection
-
Reference