Guide Pick™ We’ve spent a lifetime in the mountains. When it comes to gear we don’t settle for anything less than the best. Using the collective knowledge of the RMI Guide Team we identify and direct you to best in class mountain gear and apparel.
A warm, light, and windproof Down insulated jacket for high-altitude ascents. Designed for and used by speed climber Ueli Steck, the Nilas features 850-fill Q.Shield™ DOWN that resists moisture to retain critical loft and warmth even in damp conditions. AirShield™ technology keeps the wind at bay so that even when it’s howling, it’s always calm and dry inside the Nilas.read less
A warm, light, and windproof Down insulated jacket for high-altitude ascents. Designed for and used by speed climber Ueli Steck, the Nilas features 850-fill Q.Shield™ DOWN that resists moisture to retain critical loft and warmth even in damp conditions. AirShield™…read more
Warm enough to go to 6K meters in the Andes and Himalaya but light and compressible enough to throw into my pack for every trip, I always carry this parka. The two way zip provides easy access to my belay device and the hydrophobic down takes some of the worry out of getting it wet.
—Elias de Andres Martos
Best jacket I have owned to date. Extremely warm, durable, lightweight, and nonrestrictive. Used in -33 degree temperatures, snow storms, and wet and icy conditions. Torso and arms never felt cold! Overheated with hood on during mild exertion so I know this jacket will keep me warm in the worst extremes.
Use Situation: Rest periods while hiking and getting about.
This is a very good parka for high altitude mountaineering. I had the Peak XV too. But I like this very much since it is little lighter, perfect sizing, hood portion is easily fitted and overall easy to use. It's warm enough, I already used in very cold and blizzard conditions.
Use Situation: Used at Elbrus in August. Will be using in Aconcagua in the coming December.
One of the warmest puffys I have worn. I rented one from RMI on a pretty cold rainier summit day which, I'm glad for because my North Face 800 would not have. I keep this in my pack on snowmobile trips now too. I don't see myself ever needing a warmer jacket, I also don't see how that would be possible. Buy the correct jacket once and keep it for a lifetime.
Use Situation: Summits and breaks in the elements.
Loved it. I run cold and wore this from the cleaver to the summit and it really saved my day.
Fit: Slightly Large
Use Situation: Rainier
I rented this jacket for my Rainier summit last week. My climbing companions and I all had the same complaint: the zipper is ridiculously small and difficult to start / zip. We struggled to get the jacket zipped up at every break -- it was virtually impossible with gloves on, and difficult even with bare hands. Really frustrating. I'm sure the small zipper saved some weight, but I think a burlier, easier to use zipper would be a worthwhile weight vs. functionality trade-off. Otherwise, the jacket was great.
Use Situation: Rainier climb.
Incredible down parka. This is the king of warmth to weight/compressibility. Wore to the summit of Mt. Rainier in wind and snow. Super light and compressible yet kept me toasty on every break and on the summit in high wind and snow. Hardly notice any weight in the pack and pull it out to shed snow and keep you warm in cold winds. Q Shield and Airfield were like a down fortress wrapped around me so I could focus on climbing while Nilas battled all the elements. Love this jacket! And it even compresses down to a softball. The cuffs with thumb holes keep heat in and keep jack sleeves from riding up. Insulated hood easily fits over helmet (I even had a GoPro on mine) and has easy adjustments to snug around your head so you retain full visibility - no more looking into the side of your parka hood when you turn your head. This jacket can probably take more than I can so it's my go to for all mountaineering and winter activities.
Use Situation: 2 Rainier climbs, winter climbing on 5-6K peaks.